Momotaro

Momotaro is a production, not a meal — three floors, an izakaya running downstairs, a private room above, and a main dining room that anchors all of it. The menu matches the scale, stretching across cold plates, hot plates, sushi, and a robata section built off live coals. It reads like a restaurant unwilling to pick a lane, and mostly that ambition pays off.

The unevenness is real. With a menu this sprawling, not every section hits the same register — some dishes off the grill are the clear stars, others read as filler next to them. But the ratio favors the kitchen. This isn't a place coasting on size; the coal-fired dishes and the sushi both show real technique, and the room's energy makes even the average plates go down easy.

Michelin has kept Momotaro on its list for five straight selections, 2019 through 2025 — not a fluke, a sustained standard held across a menu big enough to lose focus and mostly hasn't. It's not a cheap night, and it's not a quiet one. It is a genuinely fun, well-cooked one, which is the harder trick to pull off at this scale.