Itria

Itria sits inside a genre that's gotten crowded fast in this city — kampachi crudo, seasonally rotating pasta, a Cal-Ital room done up in light wood with the requisite patch of exposed brick. Most places in that lane coast on the formula. Itria actually executes it. The crudo has real brightness instead of the usual flatness, and the pasta, rebuilt each season, doesn't settle into the same safe shapes every other kitchen in town leans on. The mafaldine is the kind of dish that makes a repeat visit feel necessary rather than habitual.

The wine and sake list runs deep enough to reward someone willing to spend a whole evening working through it, and that matches the pace of the place — this reads as a restaurant for a long dinner with people you actually want to talk to, not a quick plate before the next stop. Portions run small, and parking nearby is a genuine hassle, but neither undercuts what lands on the table.

Michelin selected Itria for its 2026 guide, recognition that tracks with what the kitchen is doing rather than how the dining room looks. In a neighborhood thick with interchangeable Italian spots, this is the one worth the walk back.