BearLeek

BearLeek doesn't bother with a sign. Find the gummy bear guarding a glass door in Five Points and you're in, descending into an underground room done up in neon and black, the kind of space that reads more nightclub than dining room and somehow earns it. The theme runs deeper than decor — gummy bear-shaped butter, passion fruit cream pops, housemade candies dropped with the check. It's a gimmick, sure, but one the kitchen has the range to back up.

The menu calls itself globally inspired, and for once that's not a euphemism for confusion. Koji-brined fried chicken gets a green Sichuan kick, tuna crudo lands over whipped labneh, and a plate of pierogi shows more technique than the format usually gets credit for. The dishes shouldn't share a table, let alone a menu, but each one is built with enough care that the mashup reads as confidence rather than chaos. A smoky, tart mezcal cocktail does the job of tying the whole bit together.

Local coverage has caught on, and the restaurant has landed on national radar too. Both are earned. BearLeek is a bit, and the bit works because the food behind it is real.