Ryokou

Ryokou is a ten-seat counter that plays the omakase form straight and then bends it. The fish is the expected Japanese import, cut clean and confident, but the kitchen doesn't stop there — a run of non-sushi courses gives the meal actual shape instead of just repeating the same silky move a dozen times. The tone stays loose. This isn't a temple; it's a tasting menu with a sense of humor, built by hands that already know how to run a serious sushi counter elsewhere in the city.

The room backs that up. A black curtain opens onto a small space with a golden fish mural and a soundtrack that has nothing to do with tradition, and the effect is a high-end counter that doesn't ask you to sit up straight. Finding it takes some effort, tucked into a cluster of new buildings in Adair Park — worth the detour.

Local press has already flagged it, a national list took notice, and Michelin selected it in its 2025 guide. None of that is the reason to go. The reason is a tasting menu that treats precision and play as the same project, and mostly pulls it off.