Dōgon by Kwame Onwuachi

Dōgon is Kwame Onwuachi cooking at the height of his powers with a thesis: Afro-Caribbean flavor — Nigerian, Jamaican, Trinidadian, Creole — as a through-line of American cooking, plated at the Southwest waterfront with unapologetic spice and shine. The name reaches back to the West African Dogon people, and the menu carries the history lightly.

The lists arrived immediately — the Times, 50 Best, Bon Appétit — but the room explains it better: this is the most electric dining room in the city, and the food out-talks the crowd.