Angler

Angler trades on spectacle without letting the kitchen coast on it. The room pairs navy-suited formality with a hunting-lodge wink — a taxidermied bear watching the dining room, pelts brushing your shoulder on the way to the restroom — and the kitchen matches that nerve on the plate. A head of radicchio arrives under X.O. sauce and a dentist's bib. Soft serve gets a tableside pour of caramel. Gold-plated cutlery gets swapped between courses like the kitchen is daring you to notice the theater and still take the food seriously.

The trick is that the cooking holds up under the bit. Dishes that read like standard upscale fare elsewhere get pushed further here, with enough control that the whimsy never reads as a distraction from technique.

Service matches the ambition, which matters given the wait and the price tag — both real, both the cost of a kitchen operating at this level under this much attention. Consistency has wobbled on occasion, but the floor is high enough that an off night is still a good one.

A Michelin star in 2026 and a James Beard Best New Restaurant finalist nod in 2019 confirm what the room already tells you: this is serious cooking that refuses to act like it.