LA ROYAL

LA ROYAL

Damn Good
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La Royal runs on a simple idea executed with real control: Peruvian comfort food dressed up without losing its nerve. Gratineed scallops in their halfshells, ceviche spooned into cut-glass stemware, branzino steamed in banana leaf with sweet onions and peppers — these aren't reinventions, they're classics handled with precision. The Chifa dishes carry the same discipline, especially the Lomo Saltado, where steak, tomato, onion, and soy sauce hit the umami note exactly where they should.

Maria Rondeau and chef Juan Ma Calderon built this on the instincts they sharpened running a supper club out of their home before opening Celeste in 2018. That history shows in the room: low light, exposed brick, a copper bar, two-tops close enough to feel like a dinner party rather than a restaurant. Service matches the food's confidence, which is rarer than it should be at this level of ambition.

A James Beard Best New Restaurant semifinalist nod in 2023 confirms what the plates already argue. This is a kitchen that knows exactly what it's doing and a room that knows how to hold it. Go for a special night. Leave full and unbothered.

The Spot
La Royal sits on Concord Avenue in Cambridge, the work of chef JuanMa Calderón and Maria Rondeau, who previously opened Celeste in Boston and Esmeralda in Vermont. Where Calderón's cooking at Celeste drew on his mother's home kitchen in Lima, La Royal widens the lens to dishes from across Peru's regions, served a la carte around an open kitchen counter.

The menu runs through ceviche mixto and leche de tigre, lomo saltado and patarashca (whole branzino grilled in plantain leaves), and a tacu tacu de pallares built on lima beans, mussels, shrimp, and squid. A chifa section applies Peruvian-Chinese technique — Chinese condiments worked with Peruvian peppers, a cuisine with roots in 19th-century Chinese immigration to Peru, including Calderón's own family history. Cocktails center on pisco, including a hibiscus-pomegranate La Royal Sour and a line of macerated liquors developed with cookbook author Darra Goldstein.

The room is low-lit, with exposed brick, a copper bar, and close-set two-tops around the open kitchen. Dishes arrive as gratineed scallops in the half shell, ceviche spooned into cut-glass stemware, and branzino steamed in banana leaf with onions, peppers, and herbs.

La Royal was a James Beard Foundation Best New Restaurant semifinalist in 2023.
THE FACTS
Damn Good
AWARDJames Beard Foundation Best New Restaurant, semifinalist2023
RATINGS4.4 stars across 408 reviews2 sources
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City

Boston

Neighborhood

Cambridge

Price

$$

Cuisine

Peruvian

Chef

Owner

James Beard Semifinalist 2023
Recognition