Wedgewood Houston is moving fast and uneven. New restaurants are opening into a neighborhood that doesn't have a fixed identity yet, which means some of them are landing without context and others are building something real. Bastion is the best restaurant in this part of the city by a significant margin — a DAF-tier kitchen operating out of a converted industrial space, and one of the most important restaurants Nashville has produced. Pastis arrived with enough confidence to not need the neighborhood's validation and has been operating at that level since day one. Aba is the most broadly appealing of the three and pulls it off — accessible without being generic, consistent without being boring. Three restaurants in a neighborhood still being defined. Check back as it develops.

